As I had to choose 40 pieces to exhibit, I decided to play. Play with jewels, with you visitors, with my imagination, let it dream and let you dream as well. So, I considered that a piece reminds me of the south, another one reminds me of America, another one of my childhood. And I thought what will evoke in all of you, how it will affect your imagination, and how to display them in a different way. The second point I think you have noticed is that I chose only brooches and earrings. Why? I chose earrings because I think they are the most playful objects. They have a huge downside for us women: we can’t see them when we wear them. But when we put them on, we have lots of fun, and once they are on, we don’t have to think about them anymore. As for the brooches, I think they are the most versatile of all, because we can mix them up or change them. Why pinning them only on the front of the dress? No, we can attach them on the border of the dress, we can put them on the cuffs, or on the shoes, or on a purse, why not? Or even on our hair.
As I had to choose 40 pieces to exhibit, I decided to play. Play with jewels, with you visitors, with my imagination, let it dream and let you dream as well. So, I considered that a piece reminds me of the south, another one reminds me of America, another one of my childhood. And I thought what will evoke in all of you, how it will affect your imagination, and how to display them in a different way. The second point I think you have noticed is that I chose only brooches and earrings. Why? I chose earrings because I think they are the most playful objects. They have a huge downside for us women: we can’t see them when we wear them. But when we put them on, we have lots of fun, and once they are on, we don’t have to think about them anymore. As for the brooches, I think they are the most versatile of all, because we can mix them up or change them. Why pinning them only on the front of the dress? No, we can attach them on the border of the dress, we can put them on the cuffs, or on the shoes, or on a purse, why not? Or even on our hair.
Jewellery is the supreme ornament, able to donate and instil beauty on the wearer. Jewellery also has intrinsic beauty that is given by its manufacture, its array of colour, the materials, techniques and shapes, combined with harmony and proportion.
Spilla, Bulldog con monocolo
Van Cleef & Arpels
Clip, Bulldog with Monocle
1957, France
Yellow gold, enamel, topaz
35 x 29 mm
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
Van Cleef & Arpels’ tiny animals really represent an era, the Fifties and Sixties. The jeweller took an everyday subject, a domestic animal, and transformed it into a unique product. There was also a good deal of business in this decision: the series urges the customer to buy and collect, in a similar way to charms on a bracelet.
Spille, Croci di Malta
Verdura
Brooches, Maltese Crosses
1950s, United States
Diamond, yellow and white gold, platinum
25 x 25 mm
Private collection
Fulco, duca di Verdura, a Sicilian nobleman, began his career working for Coco Chanel where he popularized the use of the Maltese cross in both costume and precious jewellery. He founded his own company in New York in 1939, and quickly gained favour with a powerful segment of New York’s high society. He is well known for whimsical designs, often inspired by nature.
Spilla
Bulgari
Brooch
1970s, France
Diamond, onyx, gold, platinum
60 x 50 mm
Private collection
Bulgari is, with good reason, the most famous Italian jewellery company. Although most of Bulgari jewels were beautifully made in Italy, it is interesting to note that Bulgari sought out a French atelier to produce this particular set.
Orecchini, Sereno variabile (Trittico) 2018, Italia
Laura Cadelo-Bertrand
Earrings, Variable Weather (Triptych)
2018, Italy
Aluminium, brass
64 x 140 x 101 mm
Laura Cadelo-Bertrand Collection
Laura Cadelo-Bertrand demonstrates here that inspiration can come from anywhere. By creating a triptych set of earrings, the wearer can choose what best suits the day, creating a new look every time. Laura is a sculptor who uses her techniques to create unusual and slyly humorous jewellery commenting on life. The titles of the pieces are just as important for understanding Laura’s art as the objects themselves.
Orecchini, Castañuelas
Van Cleef & Arpels
Earrings, Castañuelas
1970, France
Yellow gold
38 x 70 mm
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
These Castañuelas earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, are part of a series of gold jewellery inspired by the first moon landing in 1969. This series featured lunar-like surfaces and included earrings, pendants and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ famous Etruscan bracelets.
Spilla, Uovo che si schiude
Cartier
Brooch, Hatching Egg
1950s, United States
Ruby, yellow gold
28 x 20 mm
Private collection
Cartier, a household name, was founded in the 19th century and owes it success and fame to the wide range of very fine jewellery and objects created by this maison through many eras. Here is a good example of a small, fun piece; extremely easy to wear.
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