The surface of jewellery
The interface between object and environment but also between individual and object, the surface is the place where the material qualities, style, technologies and values of the contemporary jewel are told of.
This book shows work by seventy-six designers, including masters of the art of goldsmithery, young designers and international craftsmen, who have tackled the theme of the surface through hand-crafting and digital techniques, material, formal and chromatic metamorphoses, visual and tactile contact, duplicity of meaning and the relationship between skin, body and dress. A surface research, not a superficial one.
Thinking of the jewel in terms of skin means returning it to the categories of artistic debate, establishing a dialectical comparison with the major arts and favouring a hermeneutics of the contemporary jewel, the lack and the need for which is clearer than ever.
Livia Tenuta’s meticulous research views the jewel through a novel key of interpretation, that of the surface, presenting works by seventy-six artists, designers and artisans according to the various meanings of skin as experimentation, metamorphosis, narration, contact, dualism, grafting.
The surface determines the perception the jewel transmits of
itself but it is also structure, establishing a wholly unique coincidence between interior and exterior. It follows, then, that the skin represents the last, most advanced conceptual instrument to understand the contemporary jewel and the choice of the brooch is revealed extremely effective as well as evocative: free from the limitations of wearability, the brooch stages the tension between sight and touch, material and form, communication and concept. It is inviting, available, versatile.