Ettore Sottsass
memphis geometric elements
1980s, Italy
necklace
resin, metal

For Sottsass, design in the art of jewellery leads to achieving the utmost purity because, by following his own rules, the designer does not need to comply to strict laws of function, production and logic and can therefore give vent to his creative spirit.

Marcel Boucher
“Sonia”, “Ballet Of Jewels”
Line 1950, Usa
Dancer Brooch, Gilt Metall, Blue And White Rhinestones
Alfred Philippe For Trifari, Krussman & Fishel
Beau
1953 Ca.
Gilt Metal, “Milk Glass” .
Published In “The Story Of Trifari”, Maureen Brodsky, Two Pines Studio; 2016
Marcel Boucher
1951, Usa
Ballet Dancer Brooch
Rhinestones, Simulated Pearl, Gilt Metal

The ballet dancer is a subject that Marcel Boucher was to develop at different moments. “Sonia”, the first brooch we are presenting, is part of the eight-piece line “Ballet of Jewels” made in 1950 in a light, two-coloured, gold and rhodium-plated metal with rhinestones on the bodice and on the skirt of the tutu. The second one, made a year later, is a dancer in gilt metal with rhinestones supporting a simulated pearl.

Josephine Baker Swinging
jazz band, banjo, viola, drum, saxophone
1935, usa
set of 4 brooches
bachelite, hand-cut, chrome-plated metal sheet, partly painted with musicians

Josephine Baker Swinging
jazz band, banjo, viola, drum, saxophone
1935, usa
set of 4 brooches
bachelite, hand-cut, chrome-plated metal sheet, partly painted with musicians

1920s/’30s
pair of art deco brooches
rhinestone, pearls, silver-plated metal

The history of theatre costume is one of fabrics and precious embroidery, sparkling ornaments and large dimensions so that they can be admired from a distance. Little attention was paid to “Bijou de theatre” or “de spectacle” until 1980, the year in which an extraordinary collection of stage costume jewellery, made between 1860 and 1930, that had been “sleeping” for decades in a forgotten room at the Paris Opera House, came to light.

Jerry Felds for Matisse
renoir of california
early 1950s
set of bracelet, earrings
and brooch
copper and fired enamel

A set that is an example of items made in copper (highly fashionable in that period) with enamel hand-finishing, which Renoir excelled in during the 1950s. The bracelet, earrings and brooch, hallmarked “Matisse- Renoir”, are made of copper with inlay, also in copper. They were initially plated in silver to ensure that the emerald green enamel, painted in layers and then fired in the oven at high temperatures, adhered well.

Sphinx
1970, france
rosette brooch
gilt metal, multi-coloured cabochons, simulated pearls

The gilt metal brooch with multi-coloured cabochon and simulated pearls from the 1970s is hallmarked “Sphinx”, a British company founded in 1948 that, up until the ‘90s, produced high quality imitation costume jewellery for itself and for other companies, such as Kenneth Jay Lane, Butler & Wilson, Jomaz, and for large department stores like Bloomingdales, Mark & Spencer, Saks 5th Avenue.